So I've sat here saving files for an hour or so because there seems to be constant exporting issues that I cant seem to resolve (doesn't help that the actual export can take minutes at a time). I have a 12ft. x 12ft. banner I need to export for printing. I've run into 2 issues.
1. Saving a PNG. When saving a PNG the exported file will take the bottom part of the image repeat it at the top (cutting the top of the graphic off) and it also flips upside down.
2. Saving JPEG. Because of the PNG issue I tried to settle with a JPEG. The file seems fine but when I put open the file it saves at 8.333 ft and not 12 ft. So it reduces the dimensions when saved. I see no options in the exporting dialog box that would reduce the size of it but maybe I'm missing something.
Is this a common issue? Are there anyways around this? What can I do for save a 12ftx12ft file?
Thanks in Advanced!
We don't use png or jpg for printing.
#1 choice is pdf unless several large raster images are in the design then
#2 choice is tif with LZW Compression @ no more than 150dpi.
So for our in house banner prints we can print RGB PNG files with extreme accuracy, I'm actually very impressed with it, especially the green as I know that can be a difficult color to achieve in printing with CMYK inks. I'm unsure how it's able to do it. I think it reads the color profile and adjusts the colors to match it during the printing process.
And as for TIFF files I know I cant save accurate CMYK TIFF files. I tested your recommendations for TIFF files and it seemed to make no difference on the surface. Having CMYK TIFF files would probably help a lot, especially with outsourcing prints we cant do in house, but the colors are so far off I cant use them. Usually they are lightened and become very washed and gray looking.
I tried to attach the file here but it seems to not want to allow it. (Had to retype this whole thing)
Ok the output resolution of ink jets is a subject I'll,post on tomorrow.
The old Roland VersaCAMM VP-540 we retired several years ago specified a 1080x1440ppi maximum resolution for both B&W and color printing. Factors like ink bleed would make it seem more like 300ppi max. Our two latex-based printers definitely output noticeably sharper stuff.
https://www.ideastraining.com/PDFs/UnderstandingResolution.pdf
Above is a link to understanding resolutions for various processes.
However the missing link so to say in understanding this is the process of creating a media ink limit, linearization dot gain curve (profile). The curve term was when we used film, then film setters and plate setters. Now plate setters can use an ICC Profile and most ink jets use ICC Profiles.
The short of this is that such a Profile needs to be created for the various medias/papers that will be printed on. A traditional print shop generally sets up for a house gloss and uncoated text.
Inkjet RIPS ship with profiles for various media and those who invest more can make their own. Media vendors supply media profiles for the various printers.
Here's the catch, I've created thousands of media profiles for press and ink jets and the RIP rendering is to an extent dependent on the resolution for output and the resolution of images placed for rendering. For repeatability generating these profiles requires vector and raster input swatches. I.E. vector and raster content of equal color builds. However the profiles are resolution sensitive.
So a media profile created for 1200 x 1200 output for a gloss archival media may require a 200 DPI input image to create the best output, a 1200 x 1200 output white vinyl media may only need 100 DPI. It's a combination of the media ink limit needs verses the color profile for the media.
Understand this a color profile is not a media profile. A media must contain a color profile or in the case of a plate setter a curve but not visa versa.
The easiest solution to determine required input resolution is to select a high quality image and place it in a document at several different resolutions. Print that file for every media observe the output quality and create your Draw files as required. Only use the minimum resolution for the best quality.
You're telling me things I already know. I'm not a newbie to this stuff. I already know about media profiles in RIP applications and the differences between them and color profiles. I've already had a lot of experience with different kinds of vinyl and other media types and seen the effects the "tooth" in varying kinds of media has in causing ink to spread. Nevertheless, for things like tiny sized type objects or other pieces of delicate vector-based objects I'm seeing greater than the equivalent of 200ppi coming out of our current printers.With raster-based imagery, I rarely ever feed our RIPs and printers anything as high as 200ppi. Not unless it is a modest sized print meant for really close-up viewing. Otherwise it's overkill. Many images don't even have enough native resolution to cover that without a bunch of artificial up-rez nonsense. You can get away with imagery at 72ppi on banners and vehicle wraps and go well lower for other kinds of signs. It all comes down to viewing distance. Why print at a high resolution if someone speeding by in a car will never see it? On the other hand, vector objects can remain as vector objects and print as sharp as the printer will allow.
I have replied to you but the post is intended for general consumption. I never use anything more than 100 DPI unless required makes the systems and RIP fly. I use 150 for window graphics viewed on the sidewalk, damn near photo quality. All archival work is done at 200 DPI on 8 color Epson devices.
My press clients that remain are all high end clients their junk gets done at 175 screen with 350 DPI, nothing high end gets done less than 200 line or FM screened using 400 DPI files.